Wednesday 15 June 2011

Pursued by Buckwheat Honey!

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This is not a joke.  I'm beginning to think I'm being pursued by buckwheat honey, the taste of the moment.  It's just a very long moment because I still have a goodly amount left in that large jar I bought.  Recent shopping expeditions have taken me to old haunts, like EFC Food Centre and Fairline for fruit and vegetables which have featured on previous occasions.  However, on this occasion, I spotted the self-same honey in Labas, 203 Seven Sisters Road.  It was however a different brand and I think, although to be honest being more than sufficiently provided for in the buckwheat honey department I didn't check, it was of Lithuanian origin, whereas I think but couldn't swear to the fact that the 500g jar I bought (it didn't come in smaller amounts) is Ukrainian. 

This is when I have to own up that my ability to decipher Cyrillic is a bit limp.  I'm especially slack when it comes to capital letters.  Although the lovely folk at Labas (which I believe means good in Lithuanian - Labas Ryutas is good morning according to the Wikitionary) did ask if I was Russian on the basis of my ability to decipher and pronounce XPEH.  You are of course there before me - it's Kren.  I can only assume that they thought I was Russian because I pronounced it correctly but am obviously not Lithuanian and everyone knows Russia is (still) a huge country and (still) has many minority ethnic communities (thanks, Stalin).  No matter, XPEN, ok then, Kren, is the real deal.  Tempted by supermarket or even upmarket (that's a jar with provender in the title, folks) horseradish - don't be!  Nip out to your local multi-ethnic store/East European delicatessen and I guarantee you will find Kren at a good price - I defy you to spend more than £1.25 on a 200g jar.  Obviously this is no use to you at all if you live in the countryside, but if you live in a large town or near a city and there are any people from Eastern Europe living near to you at all, there will be a place for Polish (Bulgarian, Lithuanian et al) provender.




It also accounts for the herring on offer (both at EFC Food Centre and Labas - EFC is cheaper by around £1).  So that would be 1kg of herring, lovely, plump, succulent herring costing at most (Labas) £6.70 or at EFC on Green Lanes £5.80 (700g net).  Although just to be aware that Labas is a more reliable supplier of good herring than EFC.

For example, I purchased some really lovely herring from EFC a couple of weeks ago which is out of stock at the moment.  Utterly delicious, less salty than the Litvak herring sometimes is while not being Bismarckian.  A practically perfect herring (right) at £1.70 for 500g.  Not only perfect, but also Jewish.  That's right, it is Jewish sliced herring from Poland, helpfully and accurately translated on the label listing the ingredients.  Happy the herring which is also kosher, although it does make one wonder what a conversion process would consist of - a goy mit gefiltefisch gefuellt?



Obviously, this is really only of any use to you if you like herring.  If you don't then the religious or other origin of the fish is not going to be of any interest whatsoever.  Never mind, there are plenty of other fish in the sea.  And thankfully there are also lots of other types of delicious things to eat and lovely shops to visit.  But before we do just one last gasp or I fear I shall flounder and fail to notify you of something new (to me anyway).  Cod's liver.  Not cod liver oil.  But actual cod's liver.  Delicious (thanks EFC).  The foie gras of the fishy world.  £1.39 a jar.  Here it is in the jar.

And here it is on the plate. Now, I must admit, it's a difficult food item to make look enticing - perhaps if I'd sliced it thinly and placed it on black rye bread?  No matter, it is luscious and very good for you as you'd expect.  It is by no means overpowering but is rather reminiscent of the taste and texture of uni/sea urchin - firmer, but with a bold fish taste.  If you get the chance and you're OK with offal, I recommend it very highly.

There are a couple of kitchen staples which I'm rarely without.  I have a very fine selection of chillies in most forms - dried (different types, Turkish, flakes, whole, bird's eye, Kashmiri - yes, really, I bought them in India), pickles (many of these), other preparations and types (adobe chillies in oil, sambal olek) and so on.  Two of my favourites are Chilli oil - the same kind as one gets in Chinese restaurants when they bring chilli sauce and chilli oil for dipping.

Helpfully, this brand (left, made by Sun Wah) comes with chilli dregs, and includes dried shrimp for that little extra umami.  I buy mine (720g jar, cost c.£8) from New Loon Moon in Gerrard Street - see how, lah.  It is extraordinary useful, au seul and also if mixed with some Heinz Tomato Ketchup (yes, I am brainwashed by brands - not wholly, but I have the same thing with baked beans) reduced salt and sugar to make a chilli sauce which can be adjusted to your own chilli strength/taste.  It is also less expensive to make up one's own chilli sauce in this way in my view than to buy proprietary brands.  Having said that, I have a weakness (which I've recently indulged) for Yeo's sauces - their hot and sweet chilli sauces are truly sublime and worth the price.  The Yeo satay sauce is the only satay sauce I've found (in a jar/bottle) which actually tastes like satay sauce, though a bit milder than if I were making it at home or, better still, eating some that some Nonya wizard has made up at home. 

This brings me to my own particular addiction to Crispy Prawn Chilli which I can and do eat by the teaspoonful straight from the jar.  The best brand I've found is made by Tean's (pictured) and this jar was almost empty when photographed.  It is now empty.  I have no more left.  I am bereft and the last time I checked at what has to date been a faithful supplier See Woo, Lisle Street, there was none in stock.  I bought some dried chilli with shrimp the other day from the Chinese supermarket on Seven Sisters Road, but it's not the same, I know it's not.  Never mind, I'll check See Woo again the next time I'm in Chinatown, in the hopes that it's just a supply/stock issue (it's happened before).

Chillies are not only fascinating in their variety, they are incredibly good for you.  They are not only rich in Vitamin C, but also B vitamins and minerals such as potassium and manganese.  Chillies contain an alkaloid compound, capsaicin which gives strong spicy pungent character. Early laboratory studies on experimental mammals suggest that capsaicin has anti-bacterial, anti-carcinogenic, analgesic and anti-diabetic properties. It also found to reduce LDL cholesterol levels in obese individuals.  Chillies are also said to have anti-congestion properties and can be useful for people who experience nasal congestion or sinusitis.  The analgesic or pain-killing properties of chillies have been linked to their ability to release endorphins, neurotransmitters which not only have pain-killing properties but also provide a sense of happiness.  Endorphins are most commonly associated with those who undertake vigorous and regular exercise.  I wouldn't say that exercise plus chillies equal happiness, but they may well make you feel happier and healthier!

And finally, Tahini, another must-have, and at least it takes me away from my chilli obsession.  The most delicious tahini I've found is from Butcher El Baraka.  Lovely people, luscious tahini, made in Lebanon.  Lebanon the home of the best food in the Middle East, truly, I've been there - and to Syria, Jordan, North Africa, Oman...  Here, it's a healthy snack, raw carrots (batons not julienne) with Tahini, and undoubtedly a lot of other things which could be made with Tahini of this lusciousness and quality.  Enjoy!

   

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