and who is equally fond of fish. A man who knows how to appreciate a nice herring and other pescatarian delights. My friend, whom I shall refer to as Dalston to preserve his modesty, had identified a fish restaurant for us to try. Sadly, I did not record this occasion with photos, although I undoubtedly will in future. Clever Dalston! He has indeed discovered a jewel amongst fish restaurants which, it seems, few others have.
Kumkapi is on the corner of Stoke Newington Road (no.50) and Arcola Street. It would be absolutely perfect as a venue to eat before or after a performance at the Arcola Theatre even in its new location, or the Vortex Jazz Club in nearby Gillett Square. It's open late (although it's not clear how late) and is Bring Your Own Bottle - not a problem in the slightest given the availability of off-licences nearby - it opens at 12 noon, seven days a week. Although there's a wealth of good restaurants nearby, Mangal and Evin Cafe spring to mind, Kumkapi would be the fish restaurant to go too. We had Kalamar to start - delicious and, whilst I thought the batter (which was crispy) looked a bit dark which made me think it might be overcooked, I was totally wrong, it was lovely and tender. It was accompanied by Carrot Tarator, the yoghurt carrot salad, and bread which were complimentary. We followed with sea bass for me, whole, perfectly cooked - and the most gorgeous, plumpcious little anchovies arranged in a circle on the plate, heads facing outwards.
Think of a stargazy pie, but just anchoves on a plate in the prone position and you're there. The anchovies came with what looked like a delicious beetroot salad (which I didn't taste - although I did snaffle an anchovy). My sea bass was accompanied by a couple of leaves of rocket (3 leaves do not a salad make but I appreciated the thought), a few lovely grilled spring onions and some very nice looking potatoes. We chose a Coban salad - the fine dice of tomatoes, cucumber, onion and pepper which also in this version included dill and some of the sliced spring onion (green part) not used for my grilled accompaniment (excellent - waste not, want not) - which was delicious.
We left as the sun was setting (around 9.15pm - it is summer after all) over Stokey, sent on our way with complimentary tea and a menu each with 10% off for the next time, and repaired to Evin cafe for coffee and cake. This was their own cake as it happens which both Dalston and I enjoyed and would also recommend, a mixture of chocolate cake, with pistachios and honey, but not too sweet and lovely and moist. Beware the portion size though. There was only one slice left we were told - and we found it an elegant sufficiency cut in half providing a piece for each of us! Happy in Hackney indeed!
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